By Dan Pujdak
it’s a poutinerie, a local produce vendor and a love affair with Eastern Ontario. ZUPS, which opened its doors this August in the ByWard Market building, is all that and more.
John Hennessey, a former management consultant and now an owner of ZUPS, first fell for Lowertown four decades ago as a student and footballer player at the University of Ottawa. After his studies Mr. Hennessey stayed in the Ottawa region, fell in love and started a family. His daughters, like him, were athletes. They competed across Quebec and Mr. Hennessey began to learn more about the culinary traditions he now honours in his store.
ZUPS is effusive about the cuisines of Quebec and Eastern Ontario. Half of the store is dedicated to local products – which includes products that Mr. Hennessey quite accurately describes as “honour[ing[ the flavours and taste of the Boreal forest.” A salt mix sourced from the Pontiac region smells of fresh spruce and pine, while a seltzer from the fridge is flavoured by cloves. The other half of the store is a changing menu of poutines that pay homage to the diversity of Lowertown.
Mr. Hennessey has taken it as a personal mission to help create “a reimagined, fresher, simpler ByWard Market.” Over the past four decades, Mr. Hennessey has seen the Market evolve and maintains that local products are the “soul” and “personality” of the area. In his view, ZUPS can help welcome more farmers and local vendors into the neighbourhood.
ZUPS is also dedicated to building on another tradition of the Market: bilingualism. The store is offering a bilingual bonus to employees and intends to help its staff work in French and English.
Mr. Hennessey sees his restaurant and grocery as more than just a storefront, saying “this place is a safe harbour” where kindness reigns supreme. He wants to showcase a “kinder, gentler way” of being a good business by first and foremost being a good neighbour. Mr. Hennessey is putting those principles to action by offering employees a living wage and ensuring that he and his staff look out for those who need help in the Market.
The ByWard Market poutinerie is ZUPS’ starting place – and it has big plans to grow its reach. Soon the restaurant will start offering take away breakfasts and hopes it will be serving its unique poutines at festivals throughout the city. If all goes as planned, Mr. Hennessey wants to bring a taste of Eastern Ontario and Quebec to other historic marketplaces in Canada.
Signs point to a bright future for ZUPS. With a 5-star rating on Google and a packed store at most times of the day, Mr. Hennessey and his partners’ vision is coming to life.
ZUPS ByWard Poutinerie – Poutinery is located in ByWard Market Building on the William Street side. It opens daily at 11 A.M. and closes at 9 P.M except on Fridays and Saturdays, when it is open until 11 P.M.